198: Mougins, Provence

 Yes, Yes, Yes- a resounding tick for entry into the 1000 places to see before you die book!!

Had a very lovely three day stay using this little hillside town as the base to explore Cannes, Juan St Pins, Vence and Nice. The town consisted of two main - and rather spread out areas. Mougins- the residential and commercial area at the bottom of the hill on one side of the motorway- and Mougins Vieux Ville- which was where we stayed- situated on the top of the hill.

The air was one of refined objet d'art shopping nestled in shops with doors so small you had to stoop through them. Reaching out both arms you could touch each side of some of the tiniest cobbled streets. Large bunches of red geranium bounded down the stone walls , falling from storey to storey, coseying up to the elaborate wrought iron balconies, nudging the pastel coloured provencal shutters before abruptly ending its joyful downward race as it hit the stone steps. Rising from the ground outside the houses were run amuck by everlasting jasmine creepers, their boughs thickly covered in scented white flowers, spreading up the walls and intermingled in parts with the falling geraniums. Tiny pots with flowers filled steps and in the hot air the scent of the blooms invaded every corner of the tiny walled village. It was magical.

Perhaps only 20 little streets existed within the old stone walls so it was a pleasure to amble through them, popping into their little doorways and purchasing nic nacs (Provence is full it seems of little "frenchy objets d'art" for purchase). Before Picasso spent his last 15 years here, Mougins had already gained a reputation as being an artists haven.  Bar 2nd and 3rd storeys which looked residential, all the ground floors of the houses were devoted to either galleries, high end objet d'arts shops, restaurants or artist's residences.

Along with the old city, we also visited the Michelin star restaurant Le Moulin de Mougins, www.moulin-mougins.com , recommended in the 1000 places to see before you die book, where master chef Roger Verge had put provencal cooking on the global stage since opening in 1969. In a 16th century olive oil mill there was a choice of a "sandwich and salad bar"- all funky fluoro green, orange and blue chairs under mosaic tables- and the Michelin restaurant.  Being gluttons for good food we picked the latter one of course.  Trendy touches were resplendent throughout this restaurant as well with funky artwork, paintings, lounges and sculptures dotted around the area.

The meal was sublime- such a shame i didnt take a note of the food but here is their latest menu

http://www.moulindemougins.com/maj/pdf/dejeuner_au_moulin/Dejeuner_du_6_au_12_Juillet.pdf

Entrees

Vegetable cake with prawns

Mains

Desserts

Ended with the most unusual method Ive ever seen to remove bread crumbs from the table- the waiter took a spoon and sweeped it in a figure of eight movement to pick up the crumbs. We experimented doing this ourselves over the next few days but found it impossible!!

Other than The Fat Duck in Bray- one of the most enjoyable dining experiences of my life!

Definately the town...and the restaurant...are worthy inclusions in the 1000 places to see before you die  book.