220: Sidi Bou Said and Carthage, 1000 places to see before you die

Against a scenic background of a harbor beyond which lay one of the largest richest ports in ancient history, the dismal ruins of UNESCO listed Carthage lies- impossible to conjure a vision as to what the site must have looked like due to the lack of images next to a few jumbled pieces of broken granite lying forlorn on the sandy rocks. Highly uninspiring would be my thoughts.

Star attraction, as rated by the amount of photos taken of it, was a lone cat preening itself on a 2000 year old mosaic benevolently looked on by three security guards lounging arm in arm on a bench oblivious to their homosexual overtures.

The site you see on the postcard is in fact all that Carthage has to offer, other than a great view of the Tunisian equivalent of Buckingham Palace- the Presidential Palace and its surrounding grounds.  Actually the best view of the latter is from a now derelict and about to be rebuilt hotel which overlooks the palace from all its balconies and lies well within RPGs reach should anyone decide to do another coup.

Founded in 814BC by Phoenician traders, attacked by Greeks, Romans and Arabs, what remained of Carthage was unfortunately viewed as a ready cut granite quarry and thousands of stones were plundered to build houses in the town below. In fact the best pieces of Carthage can be viewed as doorways for some palatial houses in Sidi Bou Said, a quaint cobblestoned cerulean blue suburb a short distance away. The remaining mosaics, being too heavy to remove, now lie in the fabulous Bardo Museum, also in the 1000 places to see before you die book. Carthage’s greatest claim to fame however, which history never obliterated, was being the birthplace of the general Hannibal.

Historically in fact little remains of either the Phoenician nor the Roman era and far more remains of the French protectorate in the Tunis city, with its own Champs Elysee styled streets, ornate lampposts, wrought iron balconies and language. It is indeed the French who looked at a man made islet in a round moat and confirmed ancient sources that it was a Phoenician dry dock capable of holding 200 army ships in storms with an external dock to a trading vessel harbor and then the sea. Sadly large, expensive and highly ornate houses with gardens now stand on history’s footprints and so it will never be excavated should anything worth restoring in fact remain.

The ancient Phoenician dry dock

Sidi Bou Said however is perhaps the most beautiful area of Tunis- picture a cross between Provence with its blue doors and brass iron railings but with the Moorish influence of arches (courtesy of Carthage), decorative brass work on the doors and green tiled roofs. A splash of red bougainvillea, the scattering of feral kitty cats lazing away on the cobblestones and French signposts all seek to confuse you as to what country you are actually in.

Some of the nicest stones from Carthage are used on the doors

A lovely mish mash of cultures and architecture…until you see the equivalent of Big Ben. A large clock, roofed by a golden pyramid, on a fretwork of Arabian styled iron, on a road straight out of Paris replete with espalier style trees lining its double boulevard.

Carthage Im afraid isn't worth being in the 1000 places to see before you die book....far better roman ruins are at Dougga than these measly stones. And Sidi......well it looks like any greek island so Im afraid I wouldn't rush to see either.